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JoeR
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Loc: St.Cloud, FL
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Low voltage power for gate
12/20/04 12:04 AM
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I have a question:
My front gate is 800' from the house and commercial power. The GTO opener runs off solar power, although, I want to install a camera and provide more power to the opener since winter time brings less sunlight for the solar charger.
The Gate opener uses 18v AC The camera uses 13v DC. Intercom 13v DC or 16v AC
If I run 120 to the front I need #6 wire. Big money. Or I run 2 or 3 runs of 14gauge to carry the low voltage.
Is there a better way?
If I use 120V I would have to run two separate conduits since AC noise could get into intercom wires.
I am thinking that 18v AC would not produce too much noise onto intercom wires in the same conduit, or would it?
Any input on this is appreciated.
Thanks,
Joe
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egon
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Re: Low voltage power for gate
[re: JoeR]
12/20/04 07:03 AM
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Higher voltage = smaller wire required to transfer power.
Egon
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Pat
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Whoa, Joe... We need a little more detail. How much power do you need?
Gate uses how much current (how many amps) at 18 VAC? Camera uses how much current at 13 VDC? Intercom uses how much current at 16 VDC?
How many gate operations do you want to engineer for per day? How many of those are at night? Look up your insolation (not insulation). What is your latitude?
What about adding another larger solar panel? How many really really dark days do you want to "survive" worst case?
There are lots of avenues to be explored. Can you contact someone more knowledgeable than a telephone customer service operator at a mail order company to get some questions answered about your equipment?
Some of the options, just a few, something to entertain your brain while you are getting some of the needed info.
The camera and intercom are probably pretty low power users, especialy if not ON all the time just, on when activated by a visitor. Anyway a decent power supply to give you 13 VDC from the 18 VAC is pretty simple. If those two 13 VDC loads are as light as I think likely they will hardly interfere with the 18 VAC supply for the gate. I assume the gate would get its 18 VAC from a solar charged battery and inverter. The 13 VDC loads would probably be just perfectly happy to run off the 12.6 volt (nominal) voltage of the solar charged battery. With a good charge going the charge controller on the solar charged battery will let the DC rise to about 14.1 or 14 .2 (still not a likely source of problems for the 13 VDC equipment.)
If the loads are a tad heavier than I thought, use a slightly larger storage battery and solar panel.
I doubt you would actually NEED #6 wire. You can run a smaller wire and power a battery charger to maintain the battery to operate the gate. I doubt you would need anything so large as a 10 amp charger. I've seen several solar powered gates and the solar panel looked like it was under a 10 amp panel size, probably something like 5-7 amps. Remember that is 5-7 amps for about 6 hours a day (depending on your local insolation value.)
If you run a wire you can charge 24 hours a day at just 1 amp of DC charging current and get more charging done than the solar panel. Anyway, lets assume you want something like a 7-8 amp charger. That requires (given an efficient modern design) about 1 amp at 120 VAC. Do you really need #6 wire to get 1 amp?
Now factoring in the Egon/Nikola Tesla concepts... you can use a pair of transformers to reduce your wire size requirements. You insert a matched pair of transformers, each with a power capability safely greater than the 120 VAC power requirement at the gate. Sticking with our 1 amp example we need transformers to handle about 150 Watts or at least one at about 150, the lother could be 125.
At the electrical source you wire in one of the transformers as a "STEP UP" transformer. Take a look at the attached drawing. Lets let X = 4. The L O N G wire has 4 times the input voltage but only 1/4th the current. Remember, wire gauge is a current carrying requirement not a voltage requirement. So yo send 480 volts out to the gate. There the other half of the dynamic duo of transformers reduces the voltage by a factor of 4, back to 120 VAC to power the charger. Current in the long wire would be about 1/4 of an amp.
A cheaper way to do it would be to send up 240 VAC from your breaker box and use a battery charger made to operate on 240 (220?) VAC. At worst you would only need one transformer then for dropping the 240 to 120 to run a plain vanilla charger. With 240 VAC current and wire size requirements are cut in half which is still a savings in wire.
If you can get some decent idea of your power requirements, we can converge more closely to an appropriate disign.
Ahh, disclaimer disclaimer any engineering suggestions, drawings, or advice are strictly for entertainment and or educational purposes and are not intended to encumber anyone (especially me!) with liabilities related to any attempt to use any of this giberish.
Pat
"I'm not from your planet, monkey boy!"
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JoeR
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Re: Low voltage power for gate
[re: Pat]
12/22/04 07:22 PM
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Thanks Pat.
After much thought and consulting with the gate opener company, I have also concluded that the higher voltage is the way to go. My total power consumption would be less than 15 watts. The charger for the gate is 18V AC and 300mA. The camera is 12V and I think 150ma... I can't remember the intercom, but I added extra into the numbers and 15w would be max draw if all devices were in use at the same time and added 5 more watts to that. I did a voltage drop calculation based on 120v and 2 amps. This gives me 240W of power which is well in excess of my demand. Based on that I can use #10 wire and have a 3.8V drop at 2 amps draw. I am using 1.92 for equiv CCT AC resistance. I am over engineering this whole thing, but I must do so since my wife might get some crazy idea of putting Christmas lights at the front gate or whatever... I plan on renting a trencher and using one hole to run the UF (Direct bury) and the PVC conduit for the telecom and video. The video will be on RG-6 with quad shielding and CAT-5E for the telecom. I am going to have 12" vertical separation between the telecom conduit and AC power.
Is 12" enough to ensure I don't induce AC hum onto the telecom wire?
Are there any flaws with my thought process on this project? I don't want to spend money on this until I know I can do it without having to correct a costly mistake.
Thanks for all your input.
Joe
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Pat
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Re: Low voltage power for gate
[re: JoeR]
12/22/04 08:17 PM
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Joe, A 12 inch separation is pretty good for short runs but 800 ft puts it in the grey area for me. That's quite a haul and beaucoup opportunity for coupling in the hum. Can you get better shielding for your phone line?
The induced hum, if it is an audible problem, can be reduced through other means such as a hum "bucking" circuit. The basic idea is to introduce an adjustable level of AC hum into the effected circuit in such a way that the introduced hum is equal in amplitude but opposite in phase and cancels out the system's own hum. This is a tried and true method of hum reduction.
I may not have made it clear but you should be able to run everything from the 12.6 volt storage battery. This neccessitates a cleaner charging source than a regular battery charger (too much ripple, electrical ripple not cheap wine, in many chargers.) Then all the power going up the wire is to run the "trickle" charger/power supply for the storage battery. Since it charges a little bit all the time and stores power in the battery its AC requirement is very small.
You didn't make it explicity clear (at least to me) all the facts about the 18 VAC and 300 ma as relates to the gate. If the load is 300 ma at 18 VAC then with a decent efficiency the AC input at 120 VAC would be about 0.05 amps or so and would be fine with smaller wire than #10.
If you have 15 W max for everything running at the same time plus 5 W of "comfort level" which is 20 W total. Assume say 80% efficiency for the power supply/charger then you need 25 W of AC to run the power supply/charger. This is about 0.21 amps at 120 VAC or just a hair over 0.104 amps at 240VAC. So you are going with 240 Watts to meet your 20 Watt needs.
OK, how about colored flashing LEDs for Christmas lights. White, amber, blue, green, yellow, and red are easy to come by and will be happy to be powered by the 12.6 volt battery with the appropriate consideration for current limiting. The flashing reduces the duty cycle and similarly reduces the average power requirement PLUS they only need to be on at night when there is usually fewer gate openings and video/intercom sessions. Flasher/timing circuits are dead simple and cheap to build.
Pat
"I'm not from your planet, monkey boy!"
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